The History of the Hanbok

The hanbok is a traditional Korean outfit that has been worn for centuries and is still adored today. It’s a versatile garment worn by both men and women, though, depending on the gender, the outfit looks slightly different. For women, the look usually includes a jeogori (a jacket or blouse) paired with a chima (a wrap-around skirt). Men wear a jeogori too, but it’s paired with baji (baggy pants) instead. Hanboks are traditionally made from luxurious fabrics like silk, ramie, or hemp, which give them that smooth, refined feel.

The Origins and History of the Hanbok

The hanbok’s origins stretch back to the Three Kingdoms Era (57 BCE - 668 CE), where each kingdom had its own spin on the design. In the Baekje kingdom, for example, the pants were very wide, and the jeogori was long and loose. Over in Goguryeo, both men and women wore the same white-sleeved jeogori draped over trousers or skirts. Meanwhile, Silla took some style inspiration from China, wearing long jackets tied at the waist over long skirts. Fast forward to the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), and you’ll see the influence of the Mongol Empire: the chima got shorter, the jeogori became more structured and refined to better fit the form of the wearer with a long ribbon tied at the waist, and the sleeves curved just so.

The Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) brought new changes for the hanbok’s design. During this period, Korean officials and intellectuals were encouraged to study abroad, mostly in China. Such fashion influences included the mangeon (a headband for men) and skirts made of horsetail. 

In the late 19th century, Korea opened its ports and began trading with the West. New cultural influences, including different fashion styles, were brought to Korea during these times. The late 19th century to early 20th century was a period known as Gaehwagi ("the time of bloom") and marked a time of social change. Class and gender distinctions began to weaken, especially in fashion. For example, the durumagi (an overcoat worn by the upper class) became a staple for everyone. In 1895, the sangtu (a topknot hairstyle for men) was abolished, and men started getting shorter haircuts. Women’s jeogori got a major makeover—shorter, more fitted, and worn closer to the chest, often with a white band running along the neckline.

For women, Gaehwagi brought a sense of empowerment through fashion. The jangoat (a face-covering garment) and sseugaechima (a face-covering skirt) disappeared, and the jeogori became waist-length instead of covering the upper bust. The skirts also became wider, making it easier to move around. The sokgot, the undergarments for the hanbok, became more practical and comfortable, reflecting the more modern and functional approach to the hanbok that emerged during this period.

The Importance of Color in Hanbok's History

In Korean fashion, color carried importance through symbolic and cultural meanings that reflected everything from social status to special occasions. In the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.-A.D. 660), the king wore a violet garment with wide sleeves, blue silk trousers, and a fancy hat made from gold or black silk. Court members wore colored belts (purple, red, or blue) to show their rank. Fast-forward to the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties, violet was worn by royalty. During the Joseon period, kings wore red for public ceremonies.

On the other hand, the ordinary folks traditionally wore white. However, throughout Korea’s history, white was often banned. During the Goryeo and Joseon Dynasties, whites were banned, particularly for scholars, because the color represented lower social status, and commoners were prohibited from wearing colored clothing. In practice, this rule was rarely followed. When Japan occupied Korea, the Japanese claimed to ban white garments because they quickly became dirty and symbolized low status. However, in reality, the Japanese recognized that white was a symbol of national identity, and they hoped the suppression of white would suppress their identity and spirit. As a result, white clothes became a symbol of resistance and national pride for the Korean people.

The Modern Role of the Hanbok

Fast-forward to today, and the hanbok is still a beloved garment worn during weddings, holidays, and cultural festivals like Lunar New Year, the Harvest Festival, the Jinju Lantern Festival, the Andong Mask Dance Festival, and the Jeonju Hanbok Festival, both in Korea and among Korean diaspora around the world. Furthermore, in both the United States and South Korea, Koreans celebrate Hanbok Day as a day commemorating the cultural and significant heritage of the hanbok. New Jersey, Arizona, and California all recognize this day of celebration. It’s a symbol of Korea’s rich history and enduring cultural heritage.

For weddings, the bride and groom don their finest hanbok. The groom’s hanbok is often in subtle tones like blue, balancing out the bride’s bright look. On the other hand, the bride typically wears something bold with vibrant colors and intricate embroidery. Red, symbolizing good fortune, and yellow, representing fertility, are common choices. 

References:

1. https://asiasociety.org/korea/hanbok-part-1-origin-and-history

2. https://asiasociety.org/korea/hanbok-part-2-hanbok-modern-days

3. https://honoraryreporters.korea.net/board/detail.do?articlecate=1&board_no=14900&tpln=1

4. https://kccuk.org.uk/en/about-korea/history-hanbok/

5. https://www.kocis.go.kr/eng/webzine/202003/sub01.html

6. https://korelimited.com/blogs/korelimited/evolution-of-the-korean-hanbok

7. https://lorrynsmit.photography/a-guide-to-traditional-korean-wedding/#:~:text=The%20bride%20wears%20a%20hanbok,usually%20in%20more%20muted%20tones

8. Seo, Bong-Ha. “White Hanbok as an Expression of Resistance in Modern Korea.” Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 39, No. 1 (2015) p.121~132. https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO201509163234670.pdf

9. https://www.scrippsnews.com/life/holidays-and-celebrations/korean-hanbok-day-in-america-celebrates-the-colorful-traditional-dress